This information is for canals such as the Rideau Waterway and Trent-Severn Waterway. Read a sample of the Canal Regulations.
What you need:
Boats enter the lock dead slow on instructions from the Lockmaster, then stop and pass docking lines around 2 vertical cables on the lock wall (small or short-handed boats use 1 cable). A boat hook makes grabbing a lock cable easier.
A "canal-man" opens each of the two large wooden doors, by turning a crab, the large metal gear that is connected to each. Two people can crank the using the handles on either side. They close the gates of the lower doors, then open the sluice gates at the upper doors to fill the lock with water.
Things to watch:
It is good practice to hold the free end of your cable line or hook it around
one horn of a cleat as the water level changes - a jammed line can spoil your
day! "Going up" can be turbulent as water starts gushing into the
lock. No cigarettes, stoves, generators, engines - fire will ruin everyone's
day. Anyone who cannot swim should wear a PFD. Make sure Fido is tied - that
lock wall will tempt any pet when it comes into view. ALWAYS run the blower
for 5 minutes before restarting your engine - less only if you sniff the bilge
air yourself.
Read a letter from one very happy boater who had a wonderful holiday on the Trent Canal!
As you approach a lockstation, 3 blasts on your horn will inform the lockmaster of your intention to lock through. If you are driving a large vessel, then 4 blasts on your horn will let the lockmaster know that you require both gates to be opened. Be sure to have your lines and fenders ready before approaching each lock. Wearing your PFD in the locks is not mandatory in the Heritage Canals, but it is recommended, especially for non-swimmers and children. Trying to grab onto people who fall into the water in a lock will really spoil your day.
The lockmaster is in charge of all boat traffic into or out of a lock. You will be told when to enter the lock, and where to tie up (right of left).
The "blue line" is the approach dock for a lockstation that is painted with a blue stripe. This is where you tie up if you intend to lock through. If the blue line is full, you might stand off, if there is enough room. If the wait if long, you may be asked by another boat if you would like to "raft" or tie up alongside his boat. In that case, you should raise your fenders to protect your neighbor's topsides, approach dead slow, stop alongside, and pass your lines (bow, stern and two spring lines) to the other boat's crew to be fastened. Be sure to thank the other boat's captain and crew for this very big favor. Many cruising friendships have begun in just this way.
You should have fenders on both sides of your boat. At least one should be raised higher for resting against the lock wall; the others may be a bit lower for the "top" side of the lock, when it will be more like a dock. 3 fenders on each side is the minimum for a cruiser to lock in comfort. Be forewarned that each year there are more zebra mussels on lock walls and docks. They are very sharp and make nasty cuts.
On both sides of the lock wall, there are thick rubber-coated cables for boaters to pass their lines around. The cables are fastened top and bottom to the lock wall so that, as the water level changes in the lock chamber, your lines will slide easily up or down. If your boat is about 8 metres, you will probably be able to reach 2 cables, one at the bow and another at the stern. Shorter boats can usually pass a bow and stern line both passed around a single cable. Small single-handed boats can pass a single line around a cable amid-ships.
It is not "cool" to aim your boat at a busy lock and turn the motor off! Wait until the boat stops, then grab the cable using a lock pole. When the boat is positioned, pass a bow (or stern) line behind the cable and back to the boat. It is not a good idea to fasten the free end of the line to a cleat; much safer to throw the free end loosely around one horn of the cleat and tend the line as the water level changes. If you are single-handing through locks, you should keep a sharp knife handy in case a line jams -- the boat dangling from a lock wall is rare, but guaranteed to spoil your day!
If the locks are very busy, the lockmaster may ask you to "raft" to another boat that is already fastened to a cable on the lock wall. In that case, you will need to be ready to adjust your fenders to protect your neighbor's topsides and you will have to fasten your lines to the other boat's cleats. Unless the lines to the other boat are fairly short, you might want to add a spring line or two so you don't surge when the water starts to move. Be prepared to show your lock pass or have your money ready.
Now that you are fastened, turn your engine off, leaving your bilge blower on (or turn on the blower several minutes before starting your engine instead). Make sure all flames are extinguished (no cooking, smoking, or barbequing in a lock chamber).
Keep an eye on your lines when the sluice gates are opened as the water can get quite turbulent at times. Never leave a line unattended. You may loop the end around one horn of a cleat, but do not be tempted to fasten it.
When the lock gates open, you exit in the reverse order that you entered in. Under no circumstances should you turn on a gasoline engine without running the bilge blower for several minutes.
There are washrooms and gargabe cans on shore at all lockstations. Leash your dog and carry "poop'n'scoop" equipment with you. If you have any questions, the lock staff can answer them.
Hint to the wise: there are cameras at the lower approach to Merrickville, so tell your bathing beauties when you are getting close! The water between locks in this multiple lockstation can create very tricky eddies when the lock door is opened. Don't be in a hurry to be the first one out!
